Originally published in 1930 by The Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts and Sciences, this book focuses on two subjects: Designing and Planning Clothes; Dress Decoration and Ornament. It features numerous illustrations throughout the text.
Designing and planning clothes is a fascinating subject and one that gains in interest and significance on closer acquaintance. The longer you study it, in fact, the greater are the possibilities that suggest themselves and the better becomes your technique of expression.
From the study of this text you will be inspired to plan and create garments that are individually right, so right that they are just the most becoming clothes possible for yourself or your customers. And then you may go a step forward, if you have the inclination and ability, and turn your talents into the realm of creative designing, for the best designers are women of practical dressmaking experience whose natural ability has been supplemented by familiarity with fashion information and an understanding of the principles of line, contrast, balance, color, and proportion, all of which are here set forth in easily understandable form.
The principles of line and its application, as taught, become a guide by which you may give even a poorly proportioned figure a feeling of grace and rhythm. The effect of lines in relation to the figure and to one another is discussed, together with the devices by which such lines may be secured. The effect of color contrast, of light and dark areas, is next taken up, with special attention to the Greek law of space division, an invaluable compass to the inexperienced designer who would be sure of securing pleasing proportions.
Design in its relation to the individual logically follows these general topics. Here you are taught to place yourself as a figure type, whereupon you learn to plan clothes with pencil and paper. The text teaches you to produce the outline and form of a fashion drawing. Thus you may picture your ideas, working concretely, seeing directly before you the effect of a design and being able to appreciate the difference a change of line here or there may make. The salient points of the cult of the artist-designer are given in a nutshell, so to speak.
Each distinct figure type is illustrated and various designs are given, showing silhouettes and construction and trimming lines suitable for them. Furthermore, silhouettes for the different types are discussed, together with construction and trimming lines, neck and sleeve treatments, and devices for drawing attention away from disproportionate features and emphasizing the good points of the figure.
This interesting series of topics concludes very naturally with a section dealing with the choosing of fabrics to suit the purpose and character of garments and the altering of designs to suit types and fabrics.
To bring a dress successfully to the point of applying the trimming is an achievement. But to choose and place this in harmony with the design and for a beautiful effect requires a knowledge of dress decoration and ornament.
To acquaint you with these from the historical as well as the present-day standpoints, the Section dealing with these subjects comes to you filled with illustrations and discussions of trimmings from museums and shops as well as those you can produce. And thus guided, you are enabled to create clothes whose trimmings are correct and effective.
Sources of inspiration are opened up to you by this Section and you are taught to develop beautiful designs and to avoid hackneyed and mediocre types of ornament. You learn to express good taste and appropriateness in your choice of trimmings, to sense the function of each, and to discriminate in your use of them. Out of the text you acquire practical help with your every-day dressmaking problems and an appreciation of the artistic conceptions of each generation and race.
- Section I: Designing and Planning Clothes
- Advantages and Varieties
- Principles of Designing
- Preparing to Apply Principles
- Line and Application
- Meaning and Importance
- Line Applied to the Figure
- Line Used to Express Rhythm
- Line in Balanced Arrangement
- Placement of Decoration
- Contrast and Its Application
- Proportion and Its Application
- Designing for Types
- Tools and Their Use
- Designing for the Ideal, or Average, Figure
- Designing a Tailored Frock
- Designing an Afternoon Frock
- Neck Lines for Average Figure
- Designing for Other Types
- Scope and Importance
- The Short, Slender Figure
- The Tall, Slender Figure
- The Tall, Stately Figure
- The Short, Stout Figure
- The Figure Large Above the Waist
- The Figure Large Below the Waist
- The Slender Figure Large Below the Waist
- Garments and Their Fabrics
- Types of Garments
- Types of Fabrics
- Adapting Designs to Types and Fabrics
- Applying Designing Knowledge
- Section II: Dress Decoration and Ornament
- Use and Purpose
- Types of Trimmings
- Decorated Fabrics
- Designs in the Fabric
- Designs Applied to the Fabric
- Self-Fabric and Stitchery as Trimming
- Varieties of Self-Fabric Trimming
- Embroidery and Appliqué
- Beads and Sequins as Dress Trimmings
- Lace as Trimming
- Gimps, Braids, Fringes, and Passementerie
- Origin and Use
- Gimp and Braid
- Fringe and Tassels
- Ribbon as Trimming
- Buttons, Buckles, and Novelty Trimmings
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||A4 (210mm × 297mm)