Pattern Drafting, Pattern Grading, Garment Making and Garment Fitting (3rd Edition) - Needlework & Sewing - Crafts & Hobbies

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Pattern Drafting, Pattern Grading, Garment Making and Garment Fitting (3rd Edition)

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Originally published in 1939, this book contains practical knowledge on the science of tailoring and sewing by making it attractive and accessible to all minds desirous of learning it.

Contents Covered:

Preface
To the teacher of sewing and garment making
To all who sew
Description of individual types and postures
Description of measures
Measures
Standard table of measures
Pattern drafting by the Gurney self-grading method
The Gurney sure-fit curve chart
How to use the Gurney curve chart
Drafting the dress back
Drafting the two-piece dress back
Drafting the dress front
Drafting the two-piece dress front
Adapting the normal size standard patterns to individual requirements applicable to all makes of patterns
Fitting the round shouldered individual
A quick easy method of adapting commercial patterns for the round shouldered
Altering ready-made garments for high shoulders
Pin tucks in the back
Fitting the individual with large bust
To make pin tucks in the front
To enlarge a pattern over the bust with or without the use of pin tucks
The primary cause of ill-fitting garments and Shrinking woolens
Cutting the material and making garments
Drafting the sleeves with the use of the Gurney curve chart
Sleeves and sleeve measurements applicable to all makes of patterns
Drafting sleeves
To draft the straight dress or coat sleeve
The tight sleeve
To draft the tight sleeve
The straight coat sleeve made tight on the wrist
How the Gurney sleeve differs from all other makes of sleeve patterns
The two-piece jacket and coat sleeve
To draft the two-piece jacket and coat sleeve
To enlarge the sleeve at the top for the large arm
Enlarging the sleeve for the big arm
The Gurney comfortable short sleeve
To make the sleeve larger or smaller at the wrist
The short sleeve which is gathered at the bottom
For gathers at the bottom
For gathers at the top
To draft the balloon sleeve applicable to coats and dresses
To draft the bell sleeve
Fancy coat sleeve (large at elbow, small at wrist)
To draft the bishop sleeve
Adapting the dress pattern for woolen garments
The costume slip
To draft the costume slip
The kimono dress
To draft the kimono dress
To draft Peter Pan collars
Maximum roll collar
The Gurney method of sure-fit collar drafting
Roll collars
To draft the shirt waist
The shirt waist
The transposing of darts to obtain various styles, applicable to all makes of patterns
To draft the Eton jacket (Bolero)
To draft the plain coat
Pressing and removing shine
To enlarge a coat pattern over the bust
To draft the jacket
To draft the jacket pattern
To draft a jacket pattern with a seam in the center of the back
To draft the fitted coat
The fitted coat
To draft the coat raglan
The raglan coat
The raglan coat and sleeve
To draft the dolman coat
To draft the dolman coat sleeve
To draft the swagger coat
To draft the dress raglan
To draft children's dress and coat patterns
To draft children's sleeve patterns
The Gurney method of basting sleeves in the garment
To draft the cape
To make buttonhole loops
To grade the dress back
To grade the dress front
Grading the straight dress and coat sleeve
Grading the tight sleeve
To cut a coat lining
Relining a coat
To cut the lining for the two-piece sleeve
To make tailor tacks
The Gurney method of economical correct necktie cutting and making
Simplicity short cut steps in coat making
The Gurney method of making the highest grade collar applicable to coats and dresses
The method of making a plain collar
The Gurney method of drafting sure-fit skirt patterns
Drafting the plain skirt front
Drafting the plain skirt back
To draft the gored skirt
To draft the panel skirt
To draft the yoke skirt
To draft the circular skirt
To make the inverted pleat
To make the plain skirt and dress placket
The Gurney sure-fit method of making the concealed talon, hookless, sliding, fastener skirt placket
To make a dress hem in silk, crept and very light weight woolen
To sew hooks and eyes on a skirt belt
To make a hem in heavy woolen material
Making and finishing the hem for the pleated skirt
Easy method of making corners
Skirt slacks
Measures required for skirt slacks
Drafting skirt slacks front
Drafting skirt slacks back
Shorts for sport garments
Economical cutting of slacks
Making slacks
The Gurney sure-fit men's and boys' shorts
Normal standard measures
To draft men's and boys' shorts
How to cut shorts
How to make shorts
Shirt measures
Methods of taking shirt measures
Proportionate standard shirt measures
To draft men's and boys' shirts
Yoke and neck curves for all sizes
To make the French front with Indian head facing
Shirt collar
Neck band
Cuffs
To make the French shirt front with the facing material cut on the front
To draft the shirt sleeve
The Gurney easy and correct method for making the shirt sleeve placket
Men's shirt sleeve placket
The Gurney method of making bound pockets and buttonholes in light weight woolens, silk or lingerie materials
Bound buttonholes
The patch pocket for dresses
The Gurney method of making the inset stand pocket for woolens, silk or lingerie materials
The inset stand pocket
The in and out flap pocket
Patch pocket for woolens
Corded pockets and buttonholes
The Gurney new high grade method of finishing buttonholes
The older method of making piped buttonholes and pockets
The braid or bias tape pocket
The welt pocket
The welt pocket with pressed-open seams
The pressed, open-seam bound pocket or buttonhole
Index